California Citrus

California’s citrus season brightens winter. Stem-and-leaf mandarins are a favorite; the zest of their rind is wonderfully aromatic in dishes. As we reach toward the warmth of spring, I love incorporating colorful citrus at the height of its ripeness in easily assembled salads, the formula of which includes sweetness, tartness, and acidity. Experiment with cara cara navel and blood orange, pomelo, grapefruit, mandarin, lime, kumquat, and meyer lemon. If looking for a pithy lemon for zesting or candying, fingered citron like Buddha’s hand is best.

Here are my favorite assembly recipes that incorporate the bounty of citrus:

A SWEET, Herbaceous SALAD

On an oversized plate, toss:

  • Wedged grapefruit

  • Wedged blood orange

  • Fresh mint leaves, bruised to release their scent

  • Multi-floral honey, like this wildflower variety from Flamingo Estate in Los Angeles, to drizzle

  • Coarsely ground pink sea salt to sprinkle

A CRUNCHY, TANGY SALAD

On an oversized plate, toss:

  • Wedged cara cara orange

  • Toasted, chopped pistachios

  • Sliced ripe avocado

  • Squeeze of fresh meyer lemon juice

  • Dijon vinaigrette (Note, the French way is best, and couldn’t be simpler: whisk together 1 large spoonful of Dijon mustard; 2 of red wine vinegar; 5 of extra-virgin olive oil. Add a splash of cold water and pinch of salt. Shallots or honey to taste.)

A SHARP, ACIDIC SALAD

On an oversized plate, toss:

  • Wedged cara cara orange

  • Slivered white onion

  • Fresh basil leaves, bruised to release their scent

  • Balsamic vinegar, like this Giusti Modena bottle, to drizzle

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Winter Bolognese