California Citrus
California’s citrus season brightens winter. Stem-and-leaf mandarins are a favorite; the zest of their rind is wonderfully aromatic in dishes. As we reach toward the warmth of spring, I love incorporating colorful citrus at the height of its ripeness in easily assembled salads, the formula of which includes sweetness, tartness, and acidity. Experiment with cara cara navel and blood orange, pomelo, grapefruit, mandarin, lime, kumquat, and meyer lemon. If looking for a pithy lemon for zesting or candying, fingered citron like Buddha’s hand is best.
Here are my favorite assembly recipes that incorporate the bounty of citrus:
A SWEET, Herbaceous SALAD
On an oversized plate, toss:
Wedged grapefruit
Wedged blood orange
Fresh mint leaves, bruised to release their scent
Multi-floral honey, like this wildflower variety from Flamingo Estate in Los Angeles, to drizzle
Coarsely ground pink sea salt to sprinkle
A CRUNCHY, TANGY SALAD
On an oversized plate, toss:
Wedged cara cara orange
Toasted, chopped pistachios
Sliced ripe avocado
Squeeze of fresh meyer lemon juice
Dijon vinaigrette (Note, the French way is best, and couldn’t be simpler: whisk together 1 large spoonful of Dijon mustard; 2 of red wine vinegar; 5 of extra-virgin olive oil. Add a splash of cold water and pinch of salt. Shallots or honey to taste.)
A SHARP, ACIDIC SALAD
On an oversized plate, toss:
Wedged cara cara orange
Slivered white onion
Fresh basil leaves, bruised to release their scent
Balsamic vinegar, like this Giusti Modena bottle, to drizzle