Emilia-Romagna & Tuscany
Emilia-Romagna and Tuscany are exquisite regions.
It has been seven years since I last lived in Italy, and a recent revisit left only enough time to retrace favorites — many as simple as absorbing the bustle of the macelleria in Bologna, and sharing crisp herbed focaccia along the Arno. A visit in autumn is worthwhile, when clouds shroud hill-topping olive groves and reddish leaves echo the terracotta in their proximity.
On this particular trip, we stayed in the enclosed terrace of a building belonging to the House of Medici from 1434 to 1737, first built in the 15th century. The apartment had an immediate view to il Duomo, which we took in every morning over espressos and again in the evening as the sun set, windows thrown wide.
Personal FLORENCE Favorites
Egidio Michelis — at Via dell'Ariento — For the yolkiest carbonara I’ve found in Florence.
Convent of San Marco — at Piazza San Marco — A rare glimpse of Early Renaissance masterpieces in situ. Fra Angelico, under Medici patronage, frescoed cell walls.
La Ménagère— at Via de' Ginori — A design-forward floral atelier and bistro that serves a breakfast to linger over: espresso and warm baguette painted with chive butter.
Gelateria dei Neri — at Via dei Neri — The best gelateria for my favorite combination: luscious chocolate and tart wild raspberry. In summer, try melon or lemon.
Atrium Bar at the Four Seasons — at Borgo Pinti — For well-made spritz and breezy live music in the evenings. Also home to Florence’s largest private garden.
Boboli Gardens — at Piazza de' Pitti — Equally beautiful in all four seasons, I love the grottos that are tucked away as heat reprieves, and the lane of mature cypresses.
San Miniato al Monte — at Via delle Porte Sante — The most sweeping views of the city are found on the steps of this church.
Galleria dell’Accademia — at Via Ricasoli — A repository of unmissable Renaissance treasures.
Palazzo del Bargello — at Via del Proconsolo — The structure, on which construction began in 1255, is as impressive as the Michelangelo, Donatello, and Bernini within.
Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella — at Via della Scala — In 1381, Dominican friars first distilled acqua di rose, still in production today. The partumerie is beautiful, and my favorite scent produced by the house is Tabacco Toscano. See also the adjoining Basilica.
