Capitol Hill
One summer ago, we spent three warm months in the heart of Washington, on a street bounded by historic row homes.
The neighborhood sang with charm: trailing ivy, copper gas lanterns, star bolts reinforcing time-worn brick. In July, I admired the patriotic buntings ribboning in the mid-summer breeze, signaling the arrival of Independence Day.
Our dining nook had a clear view to the Capitol building, and my morning walk took me through its west front lawn, where visitors milled along the length of the mall before the day’s heat set in. Chilled stone fruit and melon were daily indulgences to stay cool: bing cherries, black ruby plums, nectarines and watermelon. The balm and haze of the air was punctuated by the occasional scent of honeysuckle. Summer’s sweetness.
Oppressive heat was often broken by a rolling storm, sheets of rain rendering the view from any window blank. I relished those afternoons.
Personal Washington Favorites
Mount Vernon — at Mt. Vernon Court — Situated on the Potomac River bank, the five-hundred acre estate of the Washingtons stands preserved. Four gardens flourish in early summer.
Tatte Bakery & Café— at Massachusetts Avenue — A bowl of labneh with roasted pears is the freshest breakfast in the city. Seasonally, their lemon mint tart is an afternoon favorite.
Old Ebbitt Grill — at 15th Street — Established in 1856 as Washington’s oldest saloon. Order briny, shucked oysters at the bar, where Roosevelt’s taxidermy collection is mounted.
Le Diplomate — at 14th Street — A mainstay of D.C.’s power lunch scene, serving thoughtful French classics. Their spinach and gruyère quiche is best, as is their bread and butter service.
Hillwood Estate and Gardens — at Linnean Avenue — Merriweather Post’s former estate is now an exquisite decorative arts museum. Enjoy an iced tea in the light-dappled parterre.
Dumbarton Oaks — at 32nd Street — A Harvard research institute for garden and landscape studies, the property sprawls in residential Georgetown. Their mature rose garden is a respite.
Phillips Collection — at 21st Street — For a notable collection of modern art hung in the collector’s architecturally Georgian former residence.
The Hay-Adams — at 16th Street — My favorite hotel in the city, steps from the White House. The bar features a cheeky salon-style hang of political cartoons.
Hirshhorn Museum & Sculpture Garden — at Independence Avenue — For installations of absorbing size that unites tradition of the avant-garde with popular culture.
Renwick Gallery of the Smithsonian American Art Museum — at Pennsylvania Avenue — Janet Echelman's fiber and lighting installation, suspended in the Grand Salon, is unmissable.
National Museum of American History — at Constitution Avenue — The museum is an encyclopedia of our history’s physical tokens, best browsed while escaping a hot afternoon.
Dolcezza — at Penn Street — Made with Virginia-grown fruit, try the roasted strawberry gelato flecked with fresh mint. For a pucker: the clementine sorbet.
Martin’s Tavern — at Wisconsin Avenue — The perfect atmosphere and fare to tuck into on a rainy evening. John F. Kennedy read the Sunday paper here, weekly, in the first booth.
Union Market— at 5th Street — A hub of the city’s culinary creativity. The whitefish salad from Leopold Smokery is a summertime lunch favorite.
Georgetown Design District — at M Street — A tight edit of glossy showrooms and art galleries: Von Ammon and Relish are two stylish favorites.
The White House — at Pennsylvania Avenue — The people’s lawn buzzes on Independence Day.
John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts — at F Street — The Kennedy administration championed the role of artists in American society. This center is in beautiful tribute.
Bridge Street Books — at Pennsylvania Avenue — An exceptional independent bookseller specializing in politics, cultural studies, poetry, and philosophy.
Daughters of the American Revolution Library — at D Street — A grand reading room and well-told, exhibitive story of the American domestic interior.
United States Botanic Garden — at Maryland Avenue — For an exhaustive glimpse at plant species from around the world. I enjoy the First Ladies Water Garden.
National Portrait Gallery — at 8th Street — Painting in the abstract expressionist style, de Kooning's portrait of John F. Kennedy is beautifully gestural. The portraits share a captivating narrative: painting as a medium has evolved over centuries, as those who have held office.
Library of Congress— at Independence Avenue — Discover Jefferson’s book collection, Lincoln’s pocket contents, and the map believed to have been carried by Lewis and Clark on their expedition exploring the American West. The lectures and symposia bring content on display to life.
